Racism in Senegal

Racism.....ugh... There is really no good way to discuss this subject but i experience it daily firsthand and want to share some of my expriences. Normally when someone mentions racism, most people in America would immediately think of racism against black people. I use the word black people not in a negative way but i just want to reinforce there are other black people besides african americans.... anyway, racism against white people is a part of life here. I CANNOT walk outside the door without being called TOUBAB by a screaming child, waiving frantically down the street. I here "TOUBAB, MAY MAA XAALIS" (White person, give me money!) more often than i here my own name. I think i have been a pretty good sport about it thus far but today i finally hit a breaking point. Toubab is a word Senegalese people use loosely for white person. Yay, ok maybe its not THAT racist to call me toubab all the time but why is my race even noticed???? When i was living in Kenya I was called Mzungu daily and realized its a part of life that will never change. I have talked with many Senegalese people about the term toubab and they describe it as nothing rude or negative at all. People describe it as saying something like "American" or "Senegalese." They just say "Why do you get so mad??? You ARE a Toubab." And yes, i suppose i am a white person. I have become quite used to the word toubab and have accepted it as part of my name... Aissatou Toubab. (My name is Aissatou here if any of you have forgotten). But today something happened and i snapped. There is another word people use here that is very derogatory.... Hoonk A Noop! This means "Red Ears." I draw the line with toubab. When someone says Hoonk a Noop, they know its mean and racist but they do it anyway. In my opinion its like calling an african american the "N Word"..there is nothing more demeaning than this. Anyway, today I decided to head down to the salon and get my hair braided for Tabaski. Women getting their hair done for Senegalese holidays is a must. I like to play along and get big braids and the people here love it. So i walk into the salon and discuss what i want and the price. All was well until i sat done and the girl starting braiding. All of the sudden another girl working in the salon decided to start talking about me. I didnt say anything because people talk about me constantly but then i heard the magic words... Honk a noop. I heard her say it and i repeated what she said to back to her and all the girls working started giggling and looking down at the floor. I starting undoing all the braids i had in my hair and the women were in shock. I grabbed my purse and just told them that Senegal is a bad place and i walked out the door. I walked home so mad. Racism sucks. It doesnt matter where, when, or why... it sucks. A fw minutes after i got home, the regional house guard came and got me and told me the ladies from the salon were out front. I went out and they apologized and said that it was one of their students that said it and they would braid me for free if i would agree to come back. Lets just say i will not be going back there. No amount of money or free braiding is worth someone treating me like im worthless and dont exist. I am shocked that the girl said it so freely knowing that i can speak Wolof. Our previous conversation was in Wolof.

All in all, racism is terrible but i will say that it has been a life changing exprience to be here and experience racism against white people. White Americans have to admit that they have it pretty easy in the racism department. Here, that is not the case. I have learned how it feels to be the minority. I have also learned what it feels like to have a child see me and run away terrified because they have never seen a white person before. I have learned what it feels like to have someone think I am worthless and stupid because I do not have the same skin color as them. I have learned what it feels like for people to think I am the richest person in the world and beg me to buy them this, that, and the other just because I am white. I have also learned that apparently Barack Obama, Akon, and I are all friends and live near each other in America. While experiencing all of these things has been less than fun at times, I will add that I would have never learned all of these things had i not come here. I appreciate all the things i have had to go through to get to where I am. It has given knowledge that is worth more than anyone could ever pay me and for that, I am thankful.

With that being said, i would like to say Happy Thanksgiving to all of my family and friends at home. I am thanksful for eah and every one of you. Ablaye and I fly into the states on Dec 7th and will be there until Jan 2nd. We are both very excited to get home and see all the people i have missed for so long. Just 13 days left!